Free crochet bralette pattern

Free crochet bralette pattern

This Pattern will be free for a limited amount of time. 

As it is our first ever pattern we are looking for a lucky few people to test, locate any mistakes we have made and let us know, so that we can update the pattern before we publish. We are also looking for creative names for the pattern and customer photos that we can share (with your permission).

You are welcome to sell items made from this pattern, but the pattern itself is not for resale. Please do share our link and tag us on Facebook/Instagram @farmtofibre . 

 

About the Yarn : Any medium weight worsted/Aran yarn with the correct gauge .

Sizes:  XS, S, M, L and XL. 

Difficulty level: 3/5

Supplies you will need:

Yarn: Approximately 200g or 335metres. (for the medium)

Hook: 5mm (or whichever hook size meets the gauge)

Scissors and tapestry needle.

 

Gauge: 13 sc – 14 rows = 4” (10 cm)


Abbreviations 

Ch = chain

st = stitch

Tr = Treble crochet

htr = half Treble crochet

dc = Double crochet

Sk = skip

Sl st= slip stitch

 

Instructions:

The Ch 2 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch.


XS Cup: Make two.
Fits: 30-34 A 
Finished cup should measure 5″- 5.5” approx.

Ch 9

Row 1: tr into 3rd ch from the hook and into the next 5 chain stitches,

Then-2 tr, ch1, 2tr into the last chain,

dc down the other side of the chain, (8 st each side of the ch1 space)

Row 2: Ch2 and turn,

 tr into next 8 st,

2tr, ch1, 2tr into ch1 space,

dc 8 down other side, (10 stitches each side of the ch1 space)

Row 3: ch2 and turn

 tr into next 10 st,

 2tr, ch1, 2tr into ch1 sp,

 dc 10 down other side (12 stitches each side of the ch1 space)

Row 4: ch2, and turn,

htr into next 12 st,

 2tr, ch1, 2tr into ch1 sp,

 dc 12 down other side (14 stitches each side of the ch1 space)

Row 5: ch2, and turn,

htr into next 14 st,

2htr, ch1, 2htr into ch1 sp,

 htr 14 down other side (16 stitches each side of the ch1 space)

Row 6: ch2, and turn,

 dc into next 16 st,

2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 sp,

 htr 14 down other side (18 stitches each side of the ch1 space)


For S Cup: Make two.
Fits: 32-36 B

Finished cup should measure 6″- 6.5” approx.

Ch 11

Row 1: tr into 3rd ch from the hook and then into the next 7 chain stitches,

 2 tr, ch1, 2tr into the last chain,

 tr 8 stitches down the other side of the chain, (10 st each side of the ch1 space)

Row 2: ch2 and turn,

 tr into next 10 st,

2tr, ch1, 2tr into ch1 space,

 tr 10 down other side, (12 stitches each side of the ch1 space)

Row 3: ch2, and turn,

tr into next 12 st,

 2tr, ch1, 2tr into ch1 sp,

 dc 12 down other side (14 stitches each side of the ch1 space)

Row 4: ch2, and turn,

 tr into next 14 st,

 2tr, ch1, 2dc into ch1 sp,

 dc 14 down other side (16 stitches each side of the ch1 space)

Row 5: ch2, and turn,

 htr into next 16 st,

2htr, ch1, 2htr into ch1 sp,

 dc 16 down other side (18 stitches each side of the ch1 space)

Row 6: ch2, and turn,

 dc into next 18st,

 2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 sp,

 dc 18 down other side (20 stitches each side of the ch1 space)


For M Cups, Make two.
Fits: 32-36 C

Finished cup should measure 7″- 7 ½” approx.

Ch 13

Row 1: dc into 3rd ch from the hook and next 9 chain stitches,

 2 dc, ch1, 2dc into the last chain. 

 dc 10 stitches down the other side of the chain. (12 st each side of the ch1 space).

Row 2: ch2 and turn,

 dc 12 st,

2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 sp,

 dc 12 down other side, (14 stitches each side of chain 1 space)

Row 3: ch2, and turn,

 dc into next 14 st,

 2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 space,

 dc 14 down other side (16 stitches each side of chain 1 space)

Row 4: ch2, and turn,

 dc into next 16 st,

2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 sp,

dc 16 down other side (18 stitches each side of chain 1 space)

Row 5: ch2, and turn,

 dc into next 18 st,

2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 sp,

dc 18 down other side (20 stitches each side of chain 1 space)

Row 6: ch2, and turn,

dc into next 20 st,

 2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 sp,

 dc 20 down other side (22 stitches each side of chain 1 space)


For L Cups, Make two.
Fit: 34-38 C-D
Finished cup should measure 8” – 8.5”

Ch 15

Row 1: dc into 3rd st from the hook and next 11st,

 2 dc, ch1, 2dc into the last chain,

dc down other side. (14 st each side of the ch1 space).

Row 2: Ch2 and turn,

 dc 14 st,

2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 space,

 dc 14 down other side, (16 stitches each side of chain 1 space)

Row 3: ch2, and turn,

 dc into next 16 st,

2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 sp,

 dc 16 down other side (18 stitches each side of chain 1 space)

Row 4: ch2, and turn,

dc into next 18 st,

2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 space,

dc 18 down other side (20 stitches each side of chain 1 space)

Row 5: ch2, and turn,

 dc into next 20 st,

 2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 space,

dc 20 down other side (22 stitches each side of chain 1 space)

Row 6: ch2, and turn,

dc into next 22 st,

 2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 sp,

 dc 22 down other side (24 stitches each side of chain 1 space)

Row 7: ch2, and turn,

 dc into next 24 st,

 2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 sp,

 dc 24 down other side (26 stitches each side of chain 1 space)


For XL Cups, Make two.
Fit: 36-40 D-DD or larger
Finished cup should measure 9” – 9.5” approx.

Ch 19

Row 1: dc into 3rd st from the hook and next 15st,

 2 dc, ch1, 2dc into the last chain,

 dc down other side, (18 st each side of the ch1 space.)

Row 2: ch2 and turn,

 dc 18 st,

 2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 space,

dc 18 down other side, (20 stitches each side of chain 1 space)

Row 3: ch2, and turn,

 dc into next 20 st,

 2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 space,

 dc 20 down other side (22 stitches each side of chain 1 space)

Row 4: ch2, and turn,

 dc into next 22 st,

2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 space,

dc 22 down other side (24 stitches each side of chain 1 space)

Row 5: ch2,  and turn,

 dc into next 24 st,

 2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 space,

 dc 24 down other side (26 stitches each side of chain 1 space)

Row 6: ch2, and turn,

 dc into next 26 st,

 2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 space,

dc 26 down other side (28 stitches each side of chain 1 space)

Row 7: ch2, and turn,

 dc into next 28 st,

2dc, ch1, 2dc into ch1 space

 dc 28 down other side (30 stitches each side of chain 1 space)


 


For the bodice, chain the required amount from the sizing information below. It is the same pattern for all sizes.

XS (waist approx. 25")- ch48+1

S (waist approx. 28")- ch56+1

M (waist approx. 31") ch66+1

L (waist approx. 35") ch74+1

XL (waist approx. 38") ch82+1

Row 1: SC into the 2nd chain. SC all the way across to the end and turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, DC across to the end and turn.

Repeat rows 1 to 2 for 6 more rows or until desired length is reached.

For a longer bodice a decrease is recommended of every other row for waist shaping.


Trim for Bodice (if preferred- no trim on photo shown):

Attach yarn to the cup's side edge. (armpit area) sc up the side, placing one sc into each st , 3sc into the corner and continue until reach the other side. bind off.

 For the Bottom edge start at one end and work your way across : 2sc into each st across to the end, 3sc into the corner.

Finish off and weave in the ends.


Joining the cups to the bodice:

Fold the bodice in half and locate the centre and mark it with a stitch marker. Place the cups, right side down over the bodice and pin in place. Then the top can been sewn or joined using your preferred invisible crochet st. (although a Celtic lace would look beautiful)


Back straps:

Join yarn to the back of the bodice near the top (either side) and chain 80 for a 25” tie (or more/less until you reach your desired length Then sc back into the chain to make a thicker tie. You will then weave the strap through the bodice to create a Criss cross/ lace up. 


Halter Straps/Ties:

Join yarn to the top of the cup. Chain 60 for a 20” tie. then sc back into the chain for a thicker tie, repeat for the other cup.




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